The Sacred Journey: Anantha Padmanabha Temples – From Moolasthanam to Divine Splendor
In the lush landscapes of Kerala, two extraordinary temples tell the story of Lord Vishnu’s journey across the state—from the serene lake temple in Kasaragod to the magnificent royal shrine in Thiruvananthapuram. These sacred abodes of Anantha Padmanabha Swamy represent not just architectural marvels but a profound spiritual narrative that has captivated devotees for over a millennium. This is the complete devotional story of how the Lord chose Kerala as his earthly dwelling and the hidden temples that preserve this divine heritage.
Ananthapura Lake Temple, Kasaragod: The Moolasthanam
In the quiet village of Ananthapura, near Kumbla in Kasaragod district, stands Kerala’s only lake temple—a mystical sanctuary rising from the waters like a vision from the Ksheerasagara itself. This 9th-century temple holds the distinction of being the Moolasthanam, the original spiritual seat of Lord Anantha Padmanabha Swamy, making it the birthplace of one of Hinduism’s most revered pilgrimage traditions.
The Legend of Divakara Muni Vilwamangalam
The temple’s origin is intertwined with the life of Divakara Muni Vilwamangalam, a Tulu Brahmin sage of extraordinary devotion. Also known as Bilvamangala in Bengal, this saint’s spiritual intensity was so profound that Lord Vishnu himself could not resist appearing before him.
Vilwamangalam had established his hermitage at Ananthapura, where he spent years in deep meditation and rigorous penance beside the sacred lake. His devotion to Lord Vishnu was absolute, his every breath a prayer, his every thought an offering. The sage performed elaborate pujas daily, his heart yearning for a glimpse of his beloved deity.
The Divine Child’s Appearance
One day, as Vilwamangalam completed his morning rituals, a beautiful child appeared at the temple. The boy’s face radiated an otherworldly glow, his eyes sparkled with divine mischief, and his smile carried the warmth of a thousand suns. Yet there was also an innocence about him that touched the sage’s heart.
Overwhelmed by the child’s radiance, Vilwamangalam asked, “Who are you, dear child? Where is your family?”
The boy replied with disarming simplicity, “I have no mother, no father, no home. I am alone in this world.”
The sage’s heart melted with compassion. “Then stay with me,” he offered. “You can help me with the temple duties, and I shall care for you.”
The child agreed but laid down a single condition: “I will stay with you as long as I am treated with love and respect. But the moment I feel humiliated or unwanted, I will leave and never return.”
Vilwamangalam readily agreed, touched by the child’s vulnerability. Little did he realize that the Supreme Lord of the Universe had accepted his hospitality.
Days of Divine Service
The boy proved to be a devoted helper. He would assist the sage in daily temple activities—fetching water from the lake, gathering flowers for worship, cleaning the sanctum, and preparing offerings. Yet the child possessed an irrepressible playfulness that sometimes tested the sage’s patience.
The boy would playfully disturb the perfectly arranged flowers, move sacred items from their places, and interrupt the sage’s meditation with innocent pranks. Initially, Vilwamangalam smiled at these childish antics, seeing them as the natural exuberance of youth.
The Moment of Realization
One fateful day, Vilwamangalam was deeply absorbed in worship, performing an intricate ritual that required absolute concentration. He had arranged sacred Shaligrama stones for worship, each positioned with precise ritual significance. These stones, considered the most sacred form of Vishnu, were the centerpiece of his devotion.
The boy, in his characteristic playfulness, began moving the Shaligrama stones around like toys, disrupting the carefully laid arrangement. The sage, his concentration shattered and his patience exhausted, reacted instinctively and harshly.
“Enough!” he shouted, pushing the child away with the back of his hand. “You have no respect for sacred things! Leave me alone!”
The words were barely out of his mouth when the child’s form began to shimmer. The boy looked at Vilwamangalam with eyes full of infinite love and sadness, then spoke in a voice that seemed to echo from eternity itself: “If you wish to see me again, come to Ananthankadu—the forest of the serpent god Anantha.”
The Divine Transformation
Before the sage could comprehend what was happening, the child transformed into a brilliant sphere of divine light. This radiant orb rose from the ground and moved swiftly toward the northeastern corner of the lake, where a mysterious cave lay hidden among the rocks.
In that instant, Vilwamangalam understood the terrible truth—he had pushed away Lord Vishnu himself, the very deity he had spent his entire life yearning to see. The realization struck him like a thunderbolt. The Supreme Being had graced him with physical presence, had lived with him, served alongside him, and he had responded with anger and rejection.
Overcome with remorse and desperate devotion, the sage rushed after the luminous sphere. “Lord! Forgive me! I did not recognize you! Come back!” But the light had already disappeared into the cave.
The Sacred Cave Journey
According to tradition, Vilwamangalam plunged into the cave without hesitation, driven by overwhelming love and repentance. The cave, it is said, formed a mystical passage that led through the earth itself. The sage traveled through this underground channel, emerging at the seashore far to the south.
To this day, visitors to Ananthapura Temple can see the cave at the northeastern corner of the lake. A small pit within the cave contains perennial spring water, considered highly sacred. This water never dries up, symbolizing the eternal nature of divine grace. Devotees believe this sacred Theertham holds purifying powers because it witnessed the Lord’s passage.
Near the southwestern corner of the lake stands a small shrine housing a beautiful idol of Krishna, believed to be the same deity that Vilwamangalam worshipped during those blessed days when the Lord lived with him. This Krishna shrine serves as a poignant reminder of the divine presence that once graced this place in physical form.
The Architectural Wonder of the Lake Temple
The Ananthapura Lake Temple stands as a unique architectural marvel in Kerala. Built in the midst of a two-acre rectangular lake fed by perennial springs, the temple embodies the Puranic symbolism of Lord Vishnu resting on the serpent Anantha in the Ksheerasagara, the cosmic ocean of milk.
The temple structure consists of the Sreekovil (sanctum sanctorum) at the center of the lake, connected to the shore by a narrow footbridge. This design creates the visual impression of the temple floating on water, representing Vishnu’s eternal presence on the cosmic ocean. The perennial spring water that fills the lake never dries up, even during the harshest droughts—a phenomenon locals attribute to divine blessing.
The Sacred Deity
In the Sreekovil, Lord Anantha Padmanabha is depicted in a seated posture on the divine five-hooded serpent Anantha, a unique feature that distinguishes this temple from the Thiruvananthapuram shrine where the Lord reclines. On both sides of the deity stand Bhudevi (Earth Goddess) and Sridevi (Goddess Lakshmi), representing material sustenance and spiritual prosperity.
The original idol was crafted using Katu-Sharkara-Yogam, a sacred mixture of more than 70 medicinal herbs and materials. This rare technique, also used for the Thiruvananthapuram deity, was believed to infuse the idol with healing properties. In 1972, these original idols were replaced with Panchaloha (five-metal alloy) idols for better preservation, though the original Katu-Sharkara-Yogam idols are carefully preserved within the temple.
Garuda and Hanuman stand before the deity in devoted prayer, while celestial maidens fan the Lord and his consorts. Jaya and Vijaya, Vishnu’s eternal gatekeepers, stand guard at the entrance. The entire scene recreates Vaikuntha, the heavenly abode of Vishnu, in earthly form.
The Exquisite Wooden Artistry
The temple is renowned for its exceptional wood carvings adorning the ceilings and pillars of the mandapam. These intricate carvings depict the Dashavatharam—the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu. Each panel tells a story: Matsya (fish) saving the Vedas during the great flood, Kurma (tortoise) supporting Mount Mandara during the churning of the cosmic ocean, Varaha (boar) rescuing Mother Earth, Narasimha (man-lion) protecting Prahlada, Vamana (dwarf) measuring the universe, Parashurama wielding his axe, Rama breaking Shiva’s bow, Krishna lifting Mount Govardhan, Buddha teaching compassion, and Kalki arriving on his white horse to end the age of darkness.
The Muktha Mandapam features beautifully painted depictions of the Navagrahas (nine planets), while the wooden Dwarapalas (gatekeepers) flanking the Sreekovil entrance showcase exceptional craftsmanship. These ancient artworks provide visual narratives of Hindu mythology, making the temple a living gallery of devotional art.
To protect these priceless paintings from the elements, an outer wall was constructed around the Sreekovil in recent times. The ruins of smaller temples and structures around the lake testify to the fact that Ananthapura was once part of a grand temple complex, though most of these ancient structures have been reclaimed by time and nature.
Babiya: The Guardian Crocodile
For over 75 years, the Ananthapura Lake was home to Babiya, a remarkable vegetarian crocodile who became a beloved symbol of the temple’s divine nature. Unlike other crocodiles, Babiya never harmed a single human being and ate only temple offerings—rice, jaggery, and other prasadam—that were fed to her twice weekly.
Devotees believed Babiya was the temple’s guardian, appointed by the Lord himself. The crocodile would emerge during feeding times, accepting offerings with seeming gratitude before retreating into the lake. Her peaceful coexistence with temple visitors and workers seemed to defy natural laws, strengthening belief in the location’s divine protection.
When Babiya passed away in October 2022 at the age of 75, devotees mourned deeply. However, in November 2023, a new crocodile appeared in the lake, much smaller than Babiya but exhibiting similar peaceful behavior. This miraculous appearance was seen as confirmation that the divine guardian tradition continues, renewing faith in the temple’s supernatural protection.
Spiritual Significance and Worship
Ananthapura Temple holds special significance as the Moolasthanam—the original source point from which the Padmanabhaswamy tradition emerged. Devotees believe that worshipping here completes the spiritual circuit of Anantha Padmanabha worship. The temple represents the beginning of the divine journey that culminated in Thiruvananthapuram.
The temple follows traditional Kerala temple rituals with three daily pujas at 7:30 AM, 12:30 PM, and 7:00 PM. Special offerings include Karthika Pooja, Panchakajjaya, Kumkumarchana, Pushpanjali, and Kalasha Japa. The annual Vaarshikothsava festival, celebrated on the 14th day of the Malayalam month Kumbha, draws thousands of devotees.
Unlike many Kerala temples, Ananthapura is open to all visitors regardless of caste, creed, or religion—a practice that predates even the famous Temple Entry Proclamation of 1936. This inclusive tradition reflects the universal nature of divine grace that the temple embodies.
Visiting the Sacred Lake Temple
Location: Ananthapura village, 6 km from Kumbla, Kasaragod District, Kerala
How to Reach:
- By Air: Mangalore Airport (54 km) or Kannur International Airport (123 km)
- By Train: Kumbla Railway Station (5 km) or Kasaragod Railway Station (12 km)
- By Road: Take Kumbala-Badiyadka road, deviation at Naikap (4 km from Kumbla)
Temple Timings: 6:00 AM – 12:00 PM, 5:00 PM – 8:00 PM
Best Time to Visit: October to March; April during festival season
Entry: Free for all, no caste or religious restrictions
Photography: Permitted in temple premises, restricted in sanctum
Special Features: Only lake temple in Kerala, vegetarian crocodile, ancient wooden carvings
The Divine Journey Southward: In Search of Ananthankadu
After the Lord disappeared into the cave at Ananthapura, Sage Vilwamangalam embarked on one of the most legendary spiritual quests in Hindu tradition. His journey from Kasaragod in northern Kerala to Thiruvananthapuram in the far south became a pilgrimage of redemption, love, and ultimate divine grace.
The Sage’s Quest
Driven by love and desperate for another glimpse of his Lord, Vilwamangalam emerged from the underground cave passage at the seashore. The divine voice still echoed in his heart: “Come to Ananthankadu.” But where was this mystical forest?
The sage traveled southward along the coast, asking villagers, farmers, and fellow ascetics about Ananthankadu. Some had heard the name in legends, others thought it a mythical place. But Vilwamangalam persevered, his determination fueled by love and longing.
He walked through dense forests, crossed rivers, climbed hills, and endured the harsh sun and monsoon rains. His feet bled, his body weakened, but his spirit remained indomitable. Every step was a prayer, every breath a plea: “Lord, show me the way. Let me see you once more.”
Days turned into weeks, weeks into months. The sage survived on fruits and roots, sleeping under trees, his only possession the unwavering faith that the Lord would not abandon his devotee.
The Vision at Thiruvananthapuram
Finally, exhausted and spiritually transformed by his arduous journey, Vilwamangalam reached a dense forest in what is now Thiruvananthapuram. The area was known as Ananthankadu—the forest of Anantha, the cosmic serpent. His heart recognized the place even before his mind could comprehend it.
As he entered the forest, the same divine child appeared before him, running playfully between the trees. Joy and relief flooded the sage’s heart. “Lord! You kept your promise!” he cried, rushing forward.
But just as before, the child remained just beyond reach, leading the sage deeper into the forest. They came to a clearing where a magnificent Ilippa tree (Indian butter tree, Madhuca longifolia) stood, its branches spreading wide, its trunk ancient and massive.
The Cosmic Transformation
The child ran toward the tree and, before Vilwamangalam’s astonished eyes, merged into it. Immediately, the great tree began to tremble. Its roots pulled free from the earth, its trunk tilted, and with a tremendous sound, it fell to the ground.
But the tree did not simply fall—it transformed. As it touched the earth, it assumed the form of Lord Vishnu in his Anantha Shayana posture, reclining on the thousand-hooded serpent Adi Sesha. The vision was magnificent beyond description: the Lord’s serene face radiated infinite peace, his four arms held his sacred weapons and symbols, and beneath him, the great serpent Anantha formed a divine couch with his coils while his multiple hoods rose protectively over the Lord’s head.
The Impossible Size
However, there was something extraordinary about this divine manifestation. The reclining form was impossibly vast—spanning approximately eight miles in length! The Lord’s head (Thirumukham) lay at Thiruvattar near Thuckalay in Tamil Nadu, his body (Thiruvudal) stretched across present-day Thiruvananthapuram, and his lotus feet (Thrippadam) reached Thrippadapuram near modern Technopark.
Vilwamangalam stood overwhelmed, unable to comprehend the entirety of what lay before him. How could he worship a form so vast? How could he build a temple for a deity whose very presence spanned multiple kingdoms?
The Divine Compromise
The sage fell to his knees and prayed with tears streaming down his face: “Lord, you have granted me the darshan I desperately sought, but I am merely a mortal. I cannot see all of you at once. I cannot build a temple large enough to house your complete form. Please, compassionate one, condense yourself to a size that I can worship and serve.”
Moved by his devotee’s sincere plea, Lord Vishnu agreed to reduce his size. He shrank to a length equal to three times the measure of Vilwamangalam’s staff (approximately 18 feet). Yet even at this reduced size, ancient Ilippa trees obstructed complete view of the deity’s form.
The Three-Part Vision
Because of the remaining Ilippa trees, Vilwamangalam could only see the Lord in three parts: the divine face and upper body (Thirumukham), the navel region where Lord Brahma emerges on a lotus (Thiruvudal), and the sacred feet (Thrippadam). Unable to remove the sacred trees without permission, the sage accepted this three-part vision as divine will.
This is why, to this day, the main shrine of Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple has three doors, each offering a view of one-third of the deity. The first door reveals the face and upper body with a Shiva Lingam resting beneath the right hand, the second shows Brahma emerging from the navel on a lotus, and the third displays the divine feet. This unique darshan method commemorates how Sage Vilwamangalam first witnessed the Lord.
The Humility of Service
Despite having received this extraordinary vision, Vilwamangalam felt he had not adequately served his Lord during their time together at Ananthapura. Determined to make amends, he approached Padmanabha with an offering—the only food he possessed.
A local Pulaya woman (from a community historically marginalized in Kerala society) had given him rice kanji (gruel) and uppumanga (salted mango pieces) in a coconut shell. This simple meal, given with kindness by someone society deemed “untouchable,” represented the purest form of devotion—service without expectation.
Vilwamangalam offered this humble meal to the Lord with tears of love, and Padmanabha accepted it graciously. This act holds profound significance: it established that the Lord accepts devotion regardless of the devotee’s social status, and that simple, sincere offerings please him more than elaborate rituals performed with pride.
The Temple’s Foundation
The spot where Lord Vishnu manifested belonged to two prominent Brahmin families: the Koopakkara Potti and Karuva Potti. Vilwamangalam, with the assistance of the reigning king and other Brahmin households, established a temple at this sacred location. The area was named Thiruvananthapuram—”The Sacred City of Anantha.”
According to tradition, Sage Parasurama, the sixth avatar of Vishnu who is believed to have created Kerala by reclaiming land from the sea, had previously sanctified this location. Parasurama entrusted the temple’s administration to seven Potti families and assigned protection duties to the King of Venad (Travancore). This ancient arrangement laid the foundation for centuries of royal patronage.
Vilwamangalam’s Final Days
Having fulfilled his purpose, Sage Vilwamangalam chose to remain in Thiruvananthapuram, spending his remaining years in worship of Padmanabhaswamy. His samadhi (final resting place) lies to the west of the main temple. Over his samadhi, a Krishna temple was later constructed, known as Vilvamangalam Sri Krishna Swamy Temple, which belongs to Thrissur Naduvil Madhom.
This temple serves as a memorial to the saint whose love and determination brought Lord Padmanabhaswamy to Thiruvananthapuram, forever changing Kerala’s spiritual landscape. The Ananthankadu Nagaraja Temple, located northwest of the main temple, still exists, marking the forest where the Lord first appeared to the sage.
Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple, Thiruvananthapuram: The Divine Splendor
Standing in the heart of Kerala’s capital city, the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple represents the culmination of Vilwamangalam’s quest and embodies one of the most magnificent expressions of Hindu devotional architecture. This temple is not merely a place of worship—it is considered one of the 108 Divya Desams, the most sacred abodes of Vishnu according to Sri Vaishnava tradition.
The Historical Temple Complex
While the temple’s spiritual origins date back to Vilwamangalam’s time (9th century), its current architectural grandeur is largely the result of major renovations undertaken by Maharaja Marthanda Varma in the mid-18th century. The king transformed what was a modest shrine into a magnificent temple complex that reflected Travancore’s wealth and devotion.
The temple architecture represents an intricate fusion of Kerala’s indigenous style with Dravidian architectural elements. This blend creates a unique aesthetic that distinguishes Padmanabhaswamy from other major South Indian temples while maintaining its distinctly Kerala character.
The Magnificent Gopuram
The temple’s seven-tier gopuram (entrance tower), built in the 16th century, rises majestically above the East Fort area of Thiruvananthapuram. Intricately carved with divine figures, mythological scenes, and decorative motifs, the gopuram serves as both an architectural marvel and a spiritual beacon visible from great distances.
The high surrounding walls create a sense of sacred enclosure, separating the divine realm within from the mundane world outside. The massive wooden doors at the entrance, adorned with intricate carvings, set the tone for the spiritual grandeur that awaits within.
The Sacred Idol: A Marvel of Devotional Art
At the heart of the temple lies the 18-foot-long Katu-Sharkara-Yogam idol of Lord Padmanabhaswamy. This massive murti was created using 12,008 Shaligrama stones—sacred fossils from the Gandaki River considered the most potent manifestations of Vishnu. These stones were bound together using the rare Katu-Sharkara-Yogam mixture of 70+ medicinal herbs and materials, creating an idol believed to possess healing properties.
Lord Vishnu reclines in the Anantha Shayana posture on the coiled body of Adi Sesha, whose five hoods rise protectively above the deity’s head. The Lord’s right hand rests on a Shiva Lingam, representing the essential unity of Vishnu and Shiva. This unique feature makes Padmanabhaswamy Temple special among Vaishnava shrines—Shiva’s presence within the sanctum sanctorum adds to its spiritual power.
The deity is flanked by Lakshmi Devi (Goddess of Prosperity) on one side and Bhu Devi (Earth Goddess) on the other, representing the completeness of divine grace that encompasses both spiritual enlightenment and material well-being.
The Three-Door Darshan
The sanctum sanctorum maintains the unique three-door arrangement that commemorates Vilwamangalam’s original vision:
First Door (Thirumukham): Reveals the Lord’s serene face, the upper body adorned with divine ornaments, and the right hand resting on the Shiva Lingam. Devotees glimpse infinite compassion in the deity’s expression, and many report feeling profound peace upon viewing this first darshan.
Second Door (Thiruvudal): Shows the navel region from which Lord Brahma emerges seated on a magnificent lotus. This image represents the moment of creation when Brahma, born from Vishnu’s navel, began the work of manifesting the universe. The intricate details of the lotus petals and Brahma’s figure showcase exceptional artistic skill.
Third Door (Thrippadam): Displays the divine lotus feet of Padmanabhaswamy. In Hindu tradition, the feet of the deity are considered especially sacred, as touching or viewing them represents complete surrender and devotion. Many devotees report that viewing the Lord’s feet fills them with humility and spiritual transformation.
The Temple’s Mandapams
Kulasekhara Mandapam: Named after Kulasekhara Alwar, one of the twelve Alwar saints, this pillared hall features 324 magnificent granite pillars with intricate carvings. Each pillar is unique, depicting various forms of Vishnu, celestial beings, and mythological scenes. The acoustic properties of this mandapam are exceptional—even whispers carry clearly across the space.
Ottakkal Mandapam: Built in the 15th century, this single-stone mandapam showcases the engineering prowess of ancient Kerala. The entire structure was carved from a single massive rock, representing devotion manifested in stone.
Karthika Mandapam: Constructed in 1758 by King Karthika Thirunal Rama Varma, this outdoor pillared hall serves as a gathering space for devotees and a venue for special ceremonies. Its design allows air circulation while providing shade, demonstrating practical considerations alongside aesthetic beauty.
Abhisheka Mandapam: Used for ritual bathing ceremonies of the deity’s festival images, this mandapam contains the facilities for elaborate purification rites that form essential parts of temple worship.
Sub-Shrines and Subsidiary Deities
The temple complex houses several important subsidiary shrines, each with its own significance:
Narasimha Shrine: Dedicated to Vishnu’s fierce man-lion incarnation, this shrine attracts devotees seeking protection from enemies and negative forces. The powerful presence of Narasimha complements the peaceful Shayana form of the main deity.
Parthasarathi Shrine: This shrine honors Krishna in his role as Arjuna’s charioteer during the Mahabharata war, representing divine guidance in life’s battles. The idol shows Krishna in a majestic standing posture.
Ganesha Shrine: Lord Ganesha, the remover of obstacles, is worshipped here by devotees seeking success in their endeavors and smooth completion of projects.
Rama Shrine: Dedicated to Lord Rama, this shrine reminds devotees that Padmanabha and Rama are one—different manifestations of the same supreme consciousness.
Sastha Shrine: Dedicated to Lord Ayyappa (Dharma Sastha), this shrine connects the temple to another major Kerala pilgrimage tradition centered at Sabarimala.
Thiruvambadi Sree Krishnaswamy Temple: Standing separately within the complex, this shrine to Krishna follows its own ritual traditions while remaining part of the greater Padmanabhaswamy sacred geography.
The Sacred Tanks
Swami Pushkarini (Padmatheertham): This sacred tank within the temple complex is believed to contain water with purifying properties. According to tradition, the tank’s origins date to Parasurama’s time. Devotees bathe here before entering the main temple, believing the waters wash away sins and prepare the mind for divine darshan.
The tank is considered so sacred that the ancient Srimad Bhagavata mentions Lord Balarama bathing here during his pilgrimage tour of India. The water maintains remarkable purity despite being centuries old, attributed to underground springs and divine blessing.
Murals and Artistic Treasures
The temple walls feature extensive murals painted in traditional Kerala style. The most famous is the massive Anantha Shayana mural, drawn in 1820 during the reign of Queen Gowri Parvathi Bayi. This mural depicts Lord Vishnu in cosmic dimensions, reclining on Anantha amidst the ocean of milk, surrounded by gods, sages, and celestial beings.
Other murals depict various episodes from Vishnu’s incarnations, the churning of the cosmic ocean, and scenes from the epics. These visual narratives serve as teaching tools, making complex philosophical concepts accessible through art. The vibrant colors, achieved using natural pigments, have remarkably retained their brightness over centuries.
The Royal Connection: Padmanabha Dasa
The relationship between Padmanabhaswamy Temple and the Travancore royal family represents one of the most unique temple-kingdom relationships in Hindu history. On January 17, 1750, King Anizham Thirunal Marthanda Varma performed the historic Thrippadidanam ceremony, literally surrendering his entire kingdom to Lord Padmanabhaswamy.
In this extraordinary act of devotion, the Maharaja declared that he and all his descendants would serve merely as vassals or agents of the deity, ruling the kingdom on behalf of Padmanabhaswamy. From that day forward, every king of Travancore bore the title “Sree Padmanabha Dasa” (servant of Padmanabha), while female family members were called “Sree Padmanabha Sevini” (female servant of Padmanabha).
The king’s final testament made this relationship explicit: “No deviation whatsoever should be made regarding the dedication of the kingdom to Padmanabhaswamy, and all future territorial acquisitions should be made over to the Devaswom.” This meant that as Travancore expanded, all new territories were considered property of the deity, with the royal family merely administering them.
This unique arrangement continued through the centuries. Even after India’s independence and the integration of princely states, the titular Maharaja of Travancore, currently Moolam Thirunal Rama Varma, serves as the trustee of the temple. The royal family maintains this sacred responsibility, performing key rituals and ensuring the temple’s traditions continue.
The Temple Entry Proclamation
One of the most significant events in the temple’s modern history occurred on November 12, 1936, when Maharaja Chithira Thirunal Rama Varma issued the Kshethra Praveshan Vilambaram (Temple Entry Proclamation). This revolutionary decree opened the temple to all Hindus regardless of caste, breaking centuries of discriminatory practices.
Prior to this proclamation, large sections of Hindu society were barred from entering the temple due to caste-based restrictions. Chithira Thirunal’s bold decision, influenced by social reform movements and his own progressive vision, transformed Padmanabhaswamy from an exclusive royal temple to a truly public house of worship.
The proclamation stated that the temple would henceforth be open to all who professed the Hindu faith, regardless of birth or social position. This was a momentous step in Kerala’s social history, as Travancore became the first princely state to abolish such restrictions. A statue of Chithira Thirunal commemorating this act stands in the temple complex, unveiled by Lord Erskine, the then Governor of Madras.
The Secret Vaults and Hidden Treasures
In 2011, the Kerala High Court ordered an inventory of the temple’s six main underground vaults after concerns about security and asset management. What was discovered astounded the world and made Padmanabhaswamy potentially the richest temple on Earth.
The vaults contained:
- Hundreds of thousands of gold coins from various ancient dynasties and foreign nations
- Gold idols and sculptures, some weighing hundreds of kilograms
- Priceless diamond-studded golden jewelry and ornaments
- Massive golden statues of deities
- Precious gemstones including diamonds, emeralds, rubies, and sapphires
- Ancient ceremonial weapons made of gold and decorated with gems
- Golden thrones and ceremonial items
- Napoleonic-era gold coins and foreign currency
The total value of treasures found was conservatively estimated at over one trillion dollars, making it one of the largest concentrations of wealth anywhere. This treasure represented centuries of royal offerings, devotee donations, and the accumulated wealth of the Travancore kingdom dedicated to the deity.
The Mystery of Vault B
However, one vault—Vault B—remains unopened and has become the subject of intense speculation and controversy. This vault’s doors bear the symbol of serpents and are believed to be sealed by sacred mantras rather than physical locks.
Temple priests and historians warn that Vault B should never be opened, as it is protected by supernatural forces. According to tradition, the vault can only be opened by a great saint who knows the specific Garuda Mantra required. Any attempt to force it open, they claim, would bring catastrophic consequences.
Local legends suggest the vault is connected by underground passages to the ocean or to other secret chambers. Some believe it contains unimaginable spiritual treasures or dangerous supernatural entities. The Kerala High Court has respected these concerns, and Vault B remains sealed, its contents unknown—a mystery that adds to the temple’s mystical aura.
Daily Worship and Rituals
The temple follows strict traditional Kerala temple rituals based on the Tantric tradition given by Tharananallur Namboothiripad. The daily schedule includes:
Early Morning (3:30 AM): The temple awakens with the Nirmalya Darshanam, when the deity is first viewed covered in flowers from the previous night’s worship. This undisturbed form represents the Lord in deep cosmic sleep.
Morning Rituals (4:00-7:00 AM): Elaborate bathing ceremonies (Abhishekam) using sacred waters, milk, yogurt, honey, and sandalwood paste. The deity is then adorned with fresh flowers, silk garments, and ornaments.
Morning Darshan (8:30 AM-11:00 AM): The temple opens for public worship. Thousands of devotees file past the three doors, receiving the grace of darshan.
Midday Rituals (11:00 AM-12:00 PM): Special offerings (naivedyam) of elaborate vegetarian dishes are presented to the deity. The variety and quality of these offerings reflect centuries of culinary tradition.
Afternoon Rest (12:00 PM-5:00 PM): The temple closes for the deity’s rest period, following the belief that the Lord requires undisturbed time just as any royal personage would.
Evening Darshan (5:00 PM-7:20 PM): The temple reopens with evening rituals including Deepa Aradhana (lamp worship) and special prayers.
Night Closing (8:00 PM): The final ritual, Athazha Pooja, concludes the day’s worship. The deity is adorned with flowers for the night and the sanctum is sealed until morning.
Major Festivals and Celebrations
Laksha Deepam (October/November): During this spectacular festival, 100,000 oil lamps are lit throughout the temple complex, creating a breathtaking display of devotional illumination. The sight of the entire temple glowing with countless flames represents the dispelling of darkness through divine light.
Murajapam and Bhadra Deepam (November): This ten-day festival features continuous recitation of sacred texts and culminates in the lighting of a massive lamp atop the temple gopuram, visible across the city.
Alpasi Festival (October/November): A biannual ten-day festival that includes grand processions of the deity’s festival images through the temple streets, accompanied by caparisoned elephants, traditional orchestra, and thousands of devotees.
Panguni Festival (March/April): Another biannual celebration featuring elaborate rituals and cultural programs that showcase Kerala’s classical arts.
The Temple’s Dress Code and Entry Rules
Padmanabhaswamy Temple maintains strict traditional dress codes:
For Men: Mandatory to wear dhoti (traditional cloth wrapped around the waist). Modern clothing like pants or shirts are not permitted. The torso must remain bare.
For Women: Saree, half-saree (skirt and blouse), or traditional Kerala clothing (set-mundu). Salwar kameez is not allowed.
Entry Restrictions: Only practicing Hindus are permitted entry. Non-Hindus are not allowed inside the temple premises. Photography and videography are strictly prohibited inside the temple.
These rules, while controversial in modern contexts, are maintained as part of the temple’s traditional character and spiritual discipline. The temple administration provides facilities for visitors to change into appropriate attire if needed.
The Spiritual Significance
Padmanabhaswamy Temple holds profound spiritual significance beyond its material wealth and architectural grandeur. As one of the 108 Divya Desams, it is considered a direct portal to Vaikuntha, Vishnu’s celestial realm. The Alvars (Tamil Vaishnavite saints) sang in praise of this temple, their hymns forming part of the sacred Nalayira Divya Prabandham.
The temple represents the concept of divine presence manifesting in physical form for human benefit. Lord Padmanabha’s reclining posture symbolizes his role as the cosmic sustainer who maintains the universe while in yoga-nidra (divine yogic sleep). From his navel emerges the creative force (Brahma), while his hand resting on the Shiva Lingam represents the destructive force—together embodying the complete cycle of creation, preservation, and dissolution.
Devotees believe that sincere worship at Padmanabhaswamy grants:
- Liberation from the cycle of birth and death (moksha)
- Material prosperity and spiritual wealth simultaneously
- Protection from negative karmic influences
- Fulfillment of righteous desires
- Peace of mind and spiritual clarity
The Temple’s Cultural Impact
The Padmanabhaswamy Temple has profoundly influenced Kerala’s cultural, social, and political development. The city of Thiruvananthapuram developed around this temple, its very name meaning “The City of the Sacred Anantha.” The temple’s architectural style influenced temple construction throughout Kerala and beyond.
The royal patronage created a vibrant tradition of classical arts. Kathakali performances depicting Vishnu’s incarnations, Koodiyattam Sanskrit theatre, traditional music recitals, and other classical art forms flourished under temple patronage. Many of Kerala’s greatest artists received training and support through temple institutions.
The temple’s administrative systems, including the Devaswom system for managing religious endowments, became models replicated across Kerala. The sophisticated accounting and property management practices developed by the temple administration influenced Kerala’s broader governance structures.
Visiting Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple
Location: East Fort, Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala
Nearest Airport: Trivandrum International Airport (5 km)
Nearest Railway Station: Thiruvananthapuram Central (2 km)
Temple Timings:
- Morning: 3:30 AM – 12:00 PM
- Evening: 5:00 PM – 8:00 PM
(Darshan timings: 8:30 AM – 11:00 AM, 5:00 PM – 7:20 PM)
Entry Requirements:
- Only Hindus permitted
- Strict dress code: Dhoti for men, saree/traditional dress for women
- Photography prohibited
- Mobile phones and electronic devices must be deposited at counter
Dress Changing Facilities: Available outside the temple for a nominal fee
Entry Fee: No entry fee, but special darshan tickets available
Best Time to Visit: Early morning (4:00-6:00 AM) or weekday mornings for shorter queues
Other Hidden Gems: Temples Connected to Anantha Padmanabha
Thrippadapuram Sree Rajarajeswari Temple
Located near Technopark in Thiruvananthapuram, this ancient temple marks the spot where Lord Padmanabha’s lotus feet rested during his eight-mile-long original manifestation. When Vilwamangalam saw the impossibly vast form of the Lord, the sacred feet were at this location.
The temple is dedicated to Goddess Rajarajeswari (Lalita Tripurasundari), considered the feminine aspect of divine power corresponding to Padmanabha’s masculine energy. The presence of the Goddess at the feet of Vishnu represents the Shakti (power) that enables his cosmic functions.
Legend of the Temple: According to tradition, when the Lord reduced his size, a portion of his divine energy remained at Thrippadapuram, manifesting as the Goddess. Devotees believe that worshipping here completes the spiritual circuit of Padmanabhaswamy worship, as it honors both the beginning and end points of the divine form.
Spiritual Practice: Many devotees visit Thrippadapuram before or after their Padmanabhaswamy darshan, believing this creates a complete spiritual circuit from head to feet of the deity.
Location: Kazhakuttam, near Technopark, Thiruvananthapuram
Significance: Marks the Lord’s lotus feet location
Deity: Rajarajeswari with sub-shrines for Padmanabha
Thiruvattar Adi Kesava Perumal Temple
Located in Kanyakumari district of Tamil Nadu, this ancient temple marks where Lord Padmanabha’s head (Thirumukham) rested during his original eight-mile manifestation. The temple’s deity, Adi Kesava Perumal, represents the primordial form of Vishnu.
Sacred Geography: The temple sits on the banks of the Kothai River, creating a serene atmosphere perfect for contemplation. The architecture follows traditional Kerala style despite being in Tamil Nadu, reflecting historical connections between Travancore and this region.
Unique Features:
- The deity faces west (unusual for Vishnu temples)
- Ancient stone inscriptions document royal grants
- Sacred pond (Manimutharu) with healing properties
- Annual float festival on Kothai River
Pilgrimage Circuit: Devotees often complete a three-temple pilgrimage: Thiruvattar (head), Thiruvananthapuram (body), and Thrippadapuram (feet), representing worship of the complete divine form.
Location: Thiruvattar, Kanyakumari District, Tamil Nadu (35 km from Thiruvananthapuram)
Temple Timings: 5:30 AM – 12:00 PM, 5:00 PM – 8:00 PM
Best Time: Visit during the annual float festival (Theppothsavam)
Vilvamangalam Sri Krishnaswamy Temple
This temple, built over Sage Vilwamangalam’s samadhi (final resting place), stands as a memorial to the saint who brought Lord Padmanabha to Thiruvananthapuram. Located near the western entrance of the main temple, it serves as a reminder of the human devotion that catalyzed divine manifestation.
The Sacred Memory: The temple houses a beautiful Krishna idol, representing the same deity that Vilwamangalam worshipped at Ananthapura when the Lord lived with him as a child. The circular design creates an intimate worship space conducive to meditation.
Spiritual Significance: Many devotees first pay respects at this temple before entering Padmanabhaswamy, honoring the sage whose love and determination made their pilgrimage possible. It reminds us that divine grace often comes through the dedication of great souls.
Daily Worship: The temple follows traditional Kerala temple rituals with two daily pujas. The management by Thrissur Naduvil Madhom maintains ancient traditions.
Location: Near western entrance of Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple
Managed By: Thrissur Naduvil Madhom
Significance: Built over Vilwamangalam’s samadhi
Deity: Lord Krishna
Ananthankadu Nagaraja Temple
This ancient temple marks the actual location of the dense forest (Ananthankadu) where Lord Padmanabha first appeared to Sage Vilwamangalam. Dedicated to Nagaraja (the serpent king), it represents the connection between Vishnu and Adi Sesha, the cosmic serpent.
Historical Significance: The temple predates the main Padmanabhaswamy Temple, standing at the original spot where the divine child merged with the Ilippa tree. Ancient trees in the compound are believed to be descendants of the original sacred forest.
Serpent Worship: Nagaraja temples hold special significance in Kerala culture. Serpents are considered guardians of treasures and protectors of temples. The presence of Nagaraja here signifies the serpent Anantha’s role in supporting Lord Vishnu.
Ritual Connection: Temple rituals here are coordinated with Padmanabhaswamy Temple ceremonies, acknowledging their intertwined history and spiritual significance.
Location: Northwest of Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple, Thiruvananthapuram
Deity: Nagaraja (Serpent King)
Special Feature: Ancient trees from original sacred forest
Best Day to Visit: Ayilyam nakshatra days (auspicious for serpent worship)
Pazhavangadi Ganapathy Temple
While dedicated to Lord Ganesha, this temple has deep connections to the Padmanabhaswamy tradition. Located near the East Fort area, it represents the removal of obstacles that allows devotees to reach Padmanabha.
The Royal Connection: The Travancore royal family traditionally worshipped at this temple before visiting Padmanabhaswamy, following the principle that Ganesha’s blessings should be sought first for any important endeavor.
Unique Rituals: The temple is famous for its Modaka (sweet dumpling) offerings. Thousands of devotees offer these to Ganesha, believing it brings prosperity and success.
Festival Celebrations: The Ganesh Chaturthi celebrations here are among Kerala’s most elaborate, with the deity adorned in different avatars each day of the festival.
Location: Pazhavangadi, near East Fort, Thiruvananthapuram
Deity: Lord Ganesha
Famous For: Modaka offerings and Ganesh Chaturthi
Temple Timings: 4:00 AM – 10:00 AM, 5:00 PM – 8:30 PM
The Spiritual Journey: Connecting the Sacred Sites
The Complete Pilgrimage Circuit
For devotees seeking the full spiritual experience of Anantha Padmanabha worship, the complete pilgrimage involves visiting all connected sites in a specific sequence:
Stage 1 – The Origin (Ananthapura, Kasaragod): Begin where it all started. Bathe in the sacred lake, pray at the Moolasthanam, seek blessings from the guardian crocodile’s successors, and connect with the original divine manifestation.
Stage 2 – The Feet (Thrippadapuram, Thiruvananthapuram): Visit the temple marking the Lord’s lotus feet, honoring Goddess Rajarajeswari who represents the Shakti enabling divine functions.
Stage 3 – Obstacle Removal (Pazhavangadi Ganapathy): Seek Ganesha’s blessings for a successful pilgrimage and removal of spiritual obstacles.
Stage 4 – The Teacher’s Memorial (Vilvamangalam Krishna Temple): Honor the sage whose devotion brought Padmanabha to Thiruvananthapuram, seeking inspiration from his example.
Stage 5 – The Sacred Forest (Ananthankadu Nagaraja Temple): Visit the original forest location, connecting with the serpent energy that supports Vishnu.
Stage 6 – The Main Temple (Sree Padmanabhaswamy): Experience the culmination of the journey with darshan of the magnificent reclining Lord through the three sacred doors.
Stage 7 – The Head (Thiruvattar Adi Kesava): Complete the circuit by visiting the temple marking the Lord’s head, thus worshipping the entire divine form from feet to head.
Spiritual Preparation for the Journey
Physical Preparation:
- Maintain cleanliness and wear clean traditional clothes
- Many devotees observe fasting or simple vegetarian diet
- Abstain from alcohol, tobacco, and non-vegetarian food
- Get adequate rest before temple visits
Mental Preparation:
- Study the legends and understand the significance of each site
- Practice meditation to calm the mind
- Cultivate devotion through prayer and mantra chanting
- Approach with humility and sincere seeking
Spiritual Practices:
- Chant Vishnu Sahasranamam (1000 names of Vishnu)
- Recite Padmanabha Ashtakam or Suprabhatam
- Practice japa (repetitive mantra chanting) of Om Namo Narayanaya
- Maintain continuous remembrance of the Lord
The Transformative Power of Pilgrimage
Thousands of devotees report life-changing experiences from this complete pilgrimage circuit. The journey from Kasaragod to Kanyakumari, covering the entire length of Kerala, mirrors an internal spiritual journey from ordinary consciousness to divine realization.
Common Experiences Reported:
- Profound sense of peace and clarity
- Resolution of long-standing life problems
- Healing of physical and mental ailments
- Deepened devotion and spiritual understanding
- Direct experiences of divine presence
- Transformation of perspective on life’s challenges
These experiences aren’t mere coincidence or suggestion. The accumulated spiritual energy of centuries of worship, the sacred geography connecting multiple temples, and the transformative power of sincere devotion create conditions for genuine spiritual breakthroughs.
The Deeper Spiritual Meanings
The Symbolism of Anantha Shayana
Lord Vishnu’s reclining posture on the serpent Anantha carries multiple layers of spiritual meaning:
Cosmic Rest: Between cycles of creation and dissolution, Vishnu rests on the cosmic ocean, representing the unmanifest potential from which all existence emerges.
Sustaining Power: Even while resting, the Lord sustains the universe. His yoga-nidra is not ordinary sleep but a state of divine awareness that maintains cosmic order.
The Thousand-Hooded Serpent: Anantha represents infinity and eternity. The thousand hoods symbolize unlimited potential, while the coiled body represents contained power ready to unfold.
Brahma’s Emergence: The lotus emerging from Vishnu’s navel, upon which Brahma sits, represents the creative force arising from the sustaining power. Creation cannot exist without preservation.
Lakshmi’s Service: Goddess Lakshmi massaging the Lord’s feet represents the inseparability of divine grace and supreme consciousness. Prosperity and spirituality are not opposed but unified in divine reality.
The Significance of the Three-Part Darshan
The unique three-door viewing system at Padmanabhaswamy carries profound philosophical significance:
Partial Vision: Human consciousness can only grasp aspects of infinite divinity, never the complete whole. The three-part darshan acknowledges this limitation while offering gradual revelation.
Progressive Understanding: Moving from face to navel to feet represents the spiritual journey from initial attraction (face) through understanding of divine processes (creation from navel) to complete surrender (feet).
Trinity Representation: Some scholars interpret the three sections as representing Brahma (creation), Vishnu (preservation), and Shiva (transformation), unified in one divine form.
Mind, Body, Spirit: The three parts can represent the three aspects of human existence that require divine grace—intellectual (head), emotional/creative (heart/navel), and material/grounded (feet).
The Lesson of Vilwamangalam’s Story
Sage Vilwamangalam’s journey from Kasaragod to Thiruvananthapuram teaches essential spiritual truths:
Divine Playfulness: The Lord often tests devotees through seemingly frustrating circumstances. His playfulness isn’t cruelty but divine pedagogy designed to deepen devotion.
The Cost of Spiritual Realization: Vilwamangalam’s long, difficult journey represents the effort required for genuine spiritual attainment. Divine grace comes, but sincere effort precedes it.
Recognizing Divinity: The sage failed to recognize God in a simple child, teaching that divinity often appears in unexpected forms. Spiritual vision requires training the heart to see beyond appearances.
The Value of Persistence: Despite losing the Lord at Ananthapura, Vilwamangalam never gave up. His persistence was rewarded with even greater divine revelation.
Humility in Service: The sage’s offering of simple kanji from a marginalized woman, accepted by the Lord, teaches that sincerity matters more than elaborate ritual.
The Connection Between Ananthapura and Padmanabhaswamy
The relationship between the Moolasthanam (Ananthapura) and the main temple (Padmanabhaswamy) reflects important spiritual principles:
From Source to Manifestation: Just as rivers flow from mountain sources to the sea, spiritual energy flows from the subtle (Ananthapura’s simple lake temple) to the manifest (Padmanabhaswamy’s grand architecture).
Complementary Energies: Ananthapura’s peaceful, intimate atmosphere complements Padmanabhaswamy’s magnificent grandeur. Both are needed—personal devotion and cosmic celebration.
Geographic Unity: The two temples, separated by Kerala’s entire length, unite the state in sacred geography. Kerala becomes a pilgrimage path itself, every inch between the temples sacred.
Historical Continuity: The connection preserves the complete story across centuries, ensuring that grandeur never forgets its humble origins in one sage’s simple devotion.
Practical Information for Modern Pilgrims
Planning Your Pilgrimage
Recommended Duration:
- Ananthapura alone: Half day
- Padmanabhaswamy complex: 1-2 days
- Complete circuit: 4-7 days
Best Season:
- October to March (pleasant weather)
- Avoid monsoon (June-September) for travel convenience
- Festival seasons offer special experiences but expect crowds
Transportation:
- Kerala State Road Transport buses connect all major temples
- Train services available between Kasaragod and Thiruvananthapuram
- Taxi/cab services convenient for temple hopping
- Organized pilgrimage tours available through travel agencies
Accommodation Options
Thiruvananthapuram:
- Budget: Numerous lodges near East Fort area
- Mid-range: Hotels along MG Road
- Luxury: Five-star hotels in Thampanoor area
- Spiritual: TTD guest houses (book in advance)
Kasaragod:
- Limited options near Ananthapura
- Better facilities in Kasaragod town or Kumbla
- Homestays offer authentic local experience
Special Considerations
Health Precautions:
- Carry prescribed medications
- Stay hydrated in Kerala’s humid climate
- Comfortable walking shoes essential
- Respect temple hygiene practices
Cultural Sensitivity:
- Dress conservatively throughout pilgrimage
- Learn basic Malayalam phrases for better interaction
- Respect local customs and temple rules
- Photography restrictions must be honored
Financial Planning:
- Modest budget sufficient for basic pilgrimage
- Special pujas and offerings extra
- Emergency funds advisable
- Many temples don’t accept cards; carry sufficient cash
Resources for Deeper Understanding
Books:
- “Sree Padmanabha Swamy Temple” by A. Sreedhara Menon
- “Travancore State Manual” by V. Nagam Aiya
- Various Malayalam texts on temple history
Digital Resources:
- Official temple website for current timings and announcements
- Kerala Tourism website for travel information
- Devotional apps with stotras and mantras
Guided Tours:
- Hire knowledgeable guides at Padmanabhaswamy
- Join organized pilgrimage groups for complete circuit
- Audio guides available at major temples
Conclusion: The Eternal Call of Padmanabha
The story of Lord Anantha Padmanabha—from the quiet lake temple in Kasaragod to the magnificent shrine in Thiruvananthapuram—represents more than geographical transition. It embodies the spiritual truth that divinity seeks devotees as much as devotees seek divinity.
Sage Vilwamangalam’s journey wasn’t just physical travel but a metaphor for every spiritual seeker’s path. We all experience moments when we fail to recognize the divine in our midst, when impatience causes us to push away grace, when we must journey through difficulty to rediscover what we lost. Yet the Lord’s promise remains: “Come to Ananthankadu.” Come to where I truly am, beyond your limited understanding, and you will find me waiting.
The hidden temples surrounding Padmanabhaswamy—from Ananthapura’s tranquil lake to Thrippadapuram’s feet, from Thiruvattar’s head to Ananthankadu’s sacred forest—create a complete spiritual ecosystem. Each temple offers unique grace, each location teaches specific lessons, each darshan awakens different aspects of consciousness.
Modern pilgrims who rush only to the famous main temple miss the deeper story. The grandeur of Padmanabhaswamy’s golden magnificence becomes truly meaningful only when understood as the culmination of Vilwamangalam’s love, the fulfillment of divine promise, and the center of an intricate sacred geography spanning Kerala.
Whether you’re a devoted pilgrim seeking spiritual transformation, a curious traveler interested in India’s religious heritage, or a seeker drawn by the mystery of divine manifestation, these temples of Anantha Padmanabha offer experiences that transcend ordinary tourism. They provide portals to ancient wisdom, gateways to divine presence, and opportunities for genuine spiritual awakening.
The call of Padmanabha echoes across centuries, inviting each generation to make the journey, to seek the divine with sincerity, to persist through difficulties, and to discover that the Lord you seek has been waiting all along, reclining peacefully on the cosmic serpent, ready to grant grace to all who come with devotion.
May your pilgrimage to these sacred abodes bring you the same transformative grace that blessed Sage Vilwamangalam. May you recognize divinity in unexpected forms, persist through challenges with unwavering faith, and ultimately find what your soul truly seeks—not just darshan of the deity, but the divine presence awakening within your own heart.
Om Namo Narayanaya! Om Namo Bhagavate Vasudevaya!
For the love of Padmanabha, for the blessings of Anantha, for the grace that flows eternally from the cosmic ocean to the hearts of devotees—may all beings find peace, prosperity, and ultimate liberation.












